What Do Ducks Eat? A Guide to Healthy & Safe Feeding

feeding a flock of backyard ducks

September 23, 2025

Introduction

Feeding ducks is something a lot of us love to do. It’s a popular pastime but also a subject of debate. Giving them the wrong food can hurt their health and mess up the environment they live in. Too much human interference can cause health and ecological problems for ducks and their habitats.

When I first started hanging out at my local pond, I began noticing what ducks eat. They nibble on plants in the water, snap up little bugs, and munch on seeds and grains. I was surprised at how many different things they eat.

Should You Feed Ducks at All?

Some people ask whether we actually need to feed the ducks. It has been said that they are capable of finding food on their own. They are skilled at living on land, in water, and in the air, which enables them to forage in various environments. If not fed, they can eat on their own. In rare cases, like severe winter, they might need some supplemental feeding.

However, those raised as pets need constant healthy food. If they are fed in their natural environments, their population can increase rapidly. In parks and ponds, ducks have a semi-domesticated nature with limited natural food. In those cases, you should provide them with proper nutrition.

The Natural Diet of Wild Ducks

To ensure the food that ducks actually need, you must know what their wild diet is. Ducks are omnivorous waterfowl that eat both animal and plant matter. In the wild, ducks feed on water plants, bugs, worms, crustaceans, amphibians, snails, seeds, and grains. This natural menu is the best kind of diet for them and should inspire how we feed ducks ourselves.

Ducks don’t eat the same thing all year. In spring, they might munch more on insects, while in late summer, they go for seeds. Their food changes depending on what’s available.

Letting ducks find their own food keeps them healthy and helps them survive in the wild. It’s a big difference compared to ducks that rely on people for food.

What to Feed Ducks

Now comes the actual question: what to offer ducks that rely on us for food? The best diet for ducks mirrors what they’d find in the wild. Whatever you offer them, it should have a balance of essential vitamins, minerals, and proteins.

a girl baby feeding ducks in the park

In urban areas like parks and ponds, like in my own city, ducks often rely on food provided by humans. Honestly, when I pass by them, I can’t stop myself from tossing some edible things in front of them. I actually possess a strong passion for these innocent creatures.

How Much to Feed Your Ducks

Feeding ducks isn’t just about dumping food in a bowl, and they’ll eat. But how much they need depends on their age, size, and what else they can forage.

Daily Amounts

  • If you want your ducks to survive the winter when the ground is frozen, about half a cup per duck per day is enough.
  • Want them healthy and happy, maybe even laying eggs? Give around 1 cup per duck per day of layer crumble with some extra niacin.
  • Ducks that roam freely will eat less from you if they can find bugs, pond plants, or grass, but they’ll always come back for more if they’re still hungry.
  • In winter, they burn more calories, so make sure feeders are full or at least feed them daily.

Flock Examples

  • A flock of 40 free-range ducks eats roughly 7 pounds a day.
  • For 30 ducks in winter with pond access, expect 15–20 pounds a day if you’re supplementing their foraging.
  • Most domestic ducks need 2–3 cups a day, depending on size and activity level.

Best Nutrition for Ducklings

Like chickens, ducks have different preferences for food as they grow. The beginners don’t know much about what to feed ducklings. Since ducklings grow fast, doubling in size every week, they need plenty of food to keep up with their growth. During their first few weeks right after hatching, they require a type of food that supports rapid growth.

a person feeding muscovy duck and ducklings with her hands

When I first got my own little flock of ducklings, I went through proper research and found what these little champs need for body growth, feather development, and to keep themselves happy and healthy.

You can also check these special duck treats and find whether they are suitable for ducks or not.

Duckling Starter Feed

As a starter feed for your ducklings, your top priority will be ensuring high-protein foods, ideally 20-22% and niacin. Niacin, commonly referred to as Vitamin B3, is an essential nutrient of duck feed, likely more critical than chick feed due to rapid body growth. It helps in energy metabolism, nervous system function, and helps prevent leg and joint issues. The niacin-rich foods are peas, pumpkin, sweet potato (raw or cooked), sardines/tuna in water, feeder fish, and salmon.

Start with waterfowl starter feed, as it consists of protein and other essential nutrients. For my own ducklings, I go with a Mazuri waterfowl starter, as my ducklings accept them right away, I offer them. And it hasn’t created any problem so far, while raising ducks for several years. The good thing about Mazuri starter feed is that no extra niacin or nutrient supplements are needed, as the feed already contains brewer’s yeast for healthy leg development.

  • It’s nutritionally complete for young waterfowl.
  • Contains sufficient niacin for ducks and geese.
  • Suitable for both domestic flocks and wildlife rescues, zoos, and rehab centers often use it.

Other options as starter feed include Purina, Manna Pro, or Small Holders duck feed. There’s no need to purchase all at once. Instead, stick to one that works best for you. Continue these types of foods only for the 2 weeks.

What you offer, except Mazuri, ensures they have enough niacin. If not, add niacin by offering brewer’s yeast as it’s safe, natural, and easy to mix in fee.

If Mazuri starter is not available at the spot, I offer them Purina Flock Raiser Crumbles as a niacin source for the first 10-15 days. As a special option, you can try this brewer’s yeast (available on Amazon), which contains probiotics, niacin, and vitamin supplements. The recommended amount is 55 mg per 1 kg (2.2 lbs) of feed per day until the baby ducks reach 10 weeks. You can ensure this amount as 1 tablespoon per cup of feed.

For the first few weeks, let your ducklings eat via free-choice feeding. Provide them with as much food as they want so they can grow nicely and fast.

If waterfowl starter feed is unavailable, unmedicated chick starter with added niacin can be used, such as the one from Manna Pro, which is also widely used for ducks. The medicated diets are designed for chickens, specifically targeting coccidiosis, a disease that ducks really get. Always choose crumbles, not pellets, as ducklings can choke on large pieces.

Duckling Grower Feed

When your ducklings are 2–3 weeks old, it’s time to switch to grower feed. The transition should be smooth, not a sudden stop of the starter feed and switch to grower feed. Instead, mix the grower feed with the starter feed to avoid digestive stress.

The grower feed is designed to reduce the protein level, typically around 16-18%. This is what my experience with ducks says and what most nutrition advisors recommend. Excessive protein at this stage can lead to angel wing (a deformity that retards flight) and skeletal deformities due to rapid growth.

The duckling grower feed is a balanced mix of grains, proteins, vitamins, and minerals. Look for specific Ducks or Goose Grower Feed, such as non-medicated Feed of Manna Pro for Young Ducks, that are generally labelled in stores.

If lower-protein feed isn’t available, starter feed can be diluted with grains like oats. Offer grower feed until your ducklings are old enough at 16-18 weeks. If you switch to layer food too early, excess calcium can damage kidneys, cause goat and affect long-term health if they’re not laying yet.

To ensure extra nutrition, add chopped veggies like peas, lettuce, parsley, kale, and fruits like blueberries, grapes, and watermelon. While feeding anything other than their grower feed, provide chick grit for digestion.

Water and Hydration

Always provide your ducklings with clean and neat water. They need water to dunk their beaks and rinse their nostrils, but not deep enough, which allows them to swim when they’re still tiny. You can make a DIY waterer from a milk jug to prevent a mess. In winter, use heated bowls so their water doesn’t freeze.

A thing apart from feeding, a single duckling needs constant company, either another duck or a lot of attention from you. If left alone too much, it can get stressed and might even die from loneliness. If possible, find them a duck friend or rehome them to a reputable wildlife rescue group.

Safe & Healthy Foods for Ducks (The Do’s)

After knowing the wild nutritional requirements of ducks, it’s pretty easy to understand what domestic ducks eat when raised as pets. The short answer to this is that pet ducks can eat almost every wild duck diet, including grains, seeds, vegetables, fruits, commercial duck feed, and some plant matter. Ducks can also eat a variety of human foods such as cracked corn, birdseed, rice, wheat pasta, grapes, and peas. Other recommended foods for ducks are listed below.

Grains and Seeds

  • Oats that should be rolled, steel-cut, or uncooked. These are easy to source and well-received by ducks. Oats can be used alone or mixed with other foods, such as peas, for added variety.
  • Cracked or whole corn is another nutritious, widely enjoyed option. Frozen sweetcorn can also be used after thawing.
  • Barley, wheat, and birdseed mixes. These must be unsalted, without additives.
  • Rice, both cooked and uncooked, can work
  • Milo
  • Millet, quinoa, mung beans, alfalfa
  • Whole wheat pasta (cooked)

Vegetables

The most recommended among vegetables are chopped leafy greens such as lettuce, kale, spinach, and cabbage, though some ducks may ignore these. Similarly, frozen or fresh peas, thawed before feeding, are among the most famous. These are considered favorite for both wild and domestic ducks, though some claim wild ducks may be less enthusiastic. Most people thaw peas before feeding, but some feed them frozen without issue. Some feeders also offer fur needles or banana slices, though these are less common. Other options include:

  • Shredded carrots, zucchini, cucumber
  • Broccoli, beets, radishes, turnips
  • Sweet potatoes, tomatoes, and parsnips

Fruits

  • Seedless grapes, halved to prevent choking
  • Apple pieces without seeds
  • Bananas, melon, cantaloupe
  • Peaches, plums, pears
  • Blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries. I enjoy them with my ducks too.

Small Animals & Insects Ducks Eat

The animals and insects that ducks eat are listed below.

  • Insects: beetles, ants, grasshoppers, flies, mosquitoes, gnats
  • Larvae & Pupae: mosquito larvae, fly larvae (maggots), etc.
  • Worms: earthworms, mealworms, bloodworms
  • Snails & Slugs: they love munching on these in gardens
  • Crustaceans: tiny crayfish, shrimp, and freshwater amphipods
  • Mollusks: small clams or mussels
  • Fish & Fish Eggs: very small fish, minnows, tadpoles, and fish eggs
  • Amphibians: tadpoles, small frogs (sometimes)

Protein-Rich Options

While feeding homesteading birds, proteins should be your priority. Its importance can’t be ignored simply. Ducks, especially ducklings and molting adults, need protein to grow strong muscles and develop healthy feathers. Feathers are made mostly of keratin, which comes from protein.

Protein helps provide the energy ducks need for swimming, flying, foraging, and staying active throughout the day. Breeding ducks need extra protein to produce healthy eggs and maintain good body condition.

The widely used option as a protein source is mealworms. Whether fresh or dried, ducks like to eat them. But the dried ones should be fed in moderation. Too many can cause liver problems. Black Soldier Fly (BSF) Larvae are high in protein and calcium, more nutritious than mealworms, and loved by ducks. These can be bought dried or provided in live form from compost piles. Some people also offer safe aquarium-bred snails, which provide natural enrichment.

Other widely used sources of protein are:

  • Earthworms, slugs, crickets
  • Small fish (feeder fish, minnows)
  • Cooked fish or eggs
  • Shrimp or lobster shells
  • Meat leftovers (small, unseasoned pieces)

Recommended Healthy Alternatives

There are specialized feeds available at pet stores, labelled as ‘duck food’ mixes. They usually contain seeds, grains, and other waterfowl-safe ingredients. You can find floating duck pellets designed for pond feeding. For young ducklings, poultry starter pellets are the best.

For adult laying ducks, layer pellets are best, the same ones I was providing for my laying hens. I have purchased the Mazuri Waterfowl Maintenance diet, and my ducks go crazy for this food. It is specially formulated to provide all the vitamins and minerals ducks need, including corn, oats, fish meal, soybean oil, and wheat middlings.

If looking for cost-effective options, buy large bags of duck food purchased online, as they are healthier than human food. The Scratch and Peck feed is a high-quality, organic, and non-GMO option that’s well-liked by both chicks and adult birds. It’s free from soy and corn, and you can see the whole grains. While I continuously fed it to my flock, the results surprised me. The ducks turned healthier and more active. Their feather condition improved much, and also egg quality.

Duck Layer Feed

Duck layer feed is especially designed for duck females that are laying eggs. It contains the ingredients that support the production of healthy, strong-shelled, nutritious eggs. The main focus is on adding an extra amount of calcium, around 2.75% – 3.5%. Without this extra calcium, the eggs may be thin-shelled or break easily. You should switch to layer feed when your duck is 18-20 weeks old, or when it lays its first egg. Layer feed is usually a mix of ground grains, protein sources, vitamins, and mineral supplements.

The one I always used with no issue until now is Mazuri Layer Feed. Sometimes when this one isn’t available, I keep on Mazrui Waterfowl Maintenance, as discussed in the earlier section, with a side dish of crushed oyster shell for extra calcium. The leafy greens also have a high amount of calcium, so they can be used as layer feed.

If your female ducks are housed with male ones, offer oyster shell separately. Don’t offer the male ducks high calcium layer feed. Keep them on Maintenance to avoid kidney issues.

Maintenance feed can float on water, which some birds enjoy, but it doesn’t have to be fed this way. It can be offered dry in a bowl, with occasional handfuls tossed in water for enrichment.

Feeding Ducks Based on Their Breeds

Since I have come across different breeds, I have noticed that duck breeds have their own slight preference towards a specific type of food. You might see the same thing. It’s not that bad if you make their favorite diet available to them.

Pekin Ducks Diet

I feed my Pekin ducks Purina duck feed, either pellets or crumbles, since it gives them everything they need to stay healthy. I had six Pekin ducks, three of which were White Pekins. When they were around 11 weeks old, I used to feed them twice a day, but I’ve learned that for non-jumbo Pekins, it’s best to keep food out all the time so they can eat whenever they want. Jumbo Pekins are a little different as they gain weight easily, so I measure out about a third of a pound of feed per duck each day and split it between morning and evening.

Besides their feed, my Pekins love to spend the day foraging. They dig up bugs, worms, and little insects in the yard, nibble on grass and weeds, and sometimes even go for my garden veggies. Because they spend so much time foraging, they usually end up eating a bit less of their regular feed.

Mallard Duckling Feed

After going through proper research, I found that mallards (even ducklings) eat a mix of animal and plant foods. During breeding season, their diet is heavy on animal matter, anywhere from 37% to 72%. The rest comes from plants.

According to the National Audubon Society, mallards aren’t picky at all. In summer, when they’re nesting and ducklings need protein, they’ll snack on aquatic insects, snails, freshwater shrimp, and other tiny critters in the water. In winter, they switch it up and eat seeds, grains, and aquatic plants, things like acorns, corn, rice, and wheat.

Muscovy Duck Feed

Muscovy ducks aren’t quite the same as mallard-type ducks. Their best feed is one made for waterfowl. If not, Flock Raiser (discussed in the earlier section) or Gamebird feed works great since they’re packed with protein. Young Muscovies (and molting adults) need extra protein in their diet to stay in good shape.

They can be a little fussy at times, but once they figure out what they like, they’ll happily snack away. When it comes to snacks, these ducks aren’t picky. They’ll happily munch on:

  • Fresh greens like cabbage, grass, or safe weeds (but skip spinach).
  • Pumpkin or squash.
  • Mealworms or dried bugs.
  • Garden goodies like tomatoes or grapes (though not every Muscovy is a veggie fan).
  • Seeds and grains for extra variety.

One cool thing about Muscovies is they’re natural foragers. They’ll happily hunt for their own food, which makes them more independent than most duck breeds.

Wood Ducks Diet

I have never kept wood ducks as pets because it’s illegal to keep them where I live. The reason behind this is that they are wild migratory birds. You should also check your local laws before rehoming them. The only exception is if one is injured and has been treated by a vet or licensed wildlife rehabilitator, and it can’t return to the wild.

So, if you ever have to look after one, the main thing is to give it what it would normally eat in the wild and make sure it can act as naturally as possible.

Wood ducks usually feed in and around water bodies like lakes, rivers, ponds, streams, and swamps. Their natural diet includes:

  • Aquatic plants and vegetation
  • Seeds, nuts, and fruits
  • Insects, snails, tadpoles, and salamanders

Sometimes they’ll even stop by backyard bird feeders near waterways to pick out grains and seeds.

Best Staple Foods for Winter

In winter, ducks need extra energy to stay warm and healthy, so their diet should be a bit richer than in warmer months. Whole kernel corn generates more internal heat during digestion, helping ducks stay warm. For quick energy in cold weather, cracked corn works well as it’s easy to eat and digest. I ensure variety for my ducks by adding a mix of 1 part whole corn, 1 part commercial duck feed, small amounts of peas or leafy greens, and the occasional mealworms. These provide energy, warmth, vitamins, and protein in their diet. I usually offer this feeding mix before bedtime.

Homemade Duck Feed

Buying bags of feed all the time gets expensive. Why not try homemade duck feed, as it’s easier to make and ducks love them too.

My Homemade Mix

I usually put together a dry mix in big batches so it lasts a while. The base is quite simple.

  • 2 parts whole or cracked wheat (energy + fiber)
  • 1 part barley or rolled oats (easy carbs + some protein)
  • 1 part sunflower seeds (unsalted, black oil type if possible) (healthy fats + protein, great for feathers)
  • ½ part split peas or lentils (cooked/soaked) (plant protein + extra niacin)
  • ½ part flax seeds (omega-3s for healthy eggs and shiny feathers)

When serving, I’d mix in brewer’s yeast or nutritional yeast for added B vitamins and sprinkle in a little crushed eggshell or oyster shell on the side for calcium, especially if your ducks are laying. A spoon of nutritional yeast or niacin powder is a must to add to their water if you don’t have yeast.

I always soak the mix for about 15–30 minutes before giving it to them. Along with that, they get plenty of peas, veggies, and a little fruit as treats. My ducks have been healthy and happy on this.

Foods to Avoid (The Don’ts)

Some foods are harmful or nutritionally void for ducks and should be avoided.

  • Moldy bread or stale baked goods pose a mold toxicity risk.
  • Salty, fatty, or processed foods such as chips, crackers, fries, and pizza.
  • Raw meat or fish leads to disease transmission.
  • Citrus fruits, as they are acidic, can interfere with calcium absorption and upset digestion.
  • Onions and garlic can harm red blood cells.
  • Large whole grains like dry beans (hard to digest unless cooked).
  • Dairy, as ducks are lactose intolerant.
  • Sugary treats like cookies, cake, and candy.
  • Avocado: toxic to birds
  • Popcorn
  • Excess rice or grains can cause obesity if overfed.

Why Bread is a Problem

Bread is considered a low-nutritional diet for ducks, though it’s filled with carbohydrates and has no vitamins or minerals. It is basically empty carbs for ducks, the excess of which can cause obesity, malnutrition, and angel wing. Ducks may feel full after eating bread, but still lack the proteins, vitamins, and minerals they need.

You may have noticed ducks eating bread when you offer it to them. Many people mistake this for their favorite food. But just because they’re willing to eat it doesn’t mean it’s good for them. Aside from a nutritional point of view, excess bread affects the natural behavior of ducks. It reduces natural foraging behavior.

If you continuously offer bread to ducks in a pond or a park, the ducks will likely ignore it all. This uneaten bread molds quickly, polluting the water and attracting pests. It can result in reducing oxygen levels, harming other aquatic life.

A small piece of bread given rarely is unlikely to harm a healthy duck, but daily feeding can cause long-term problems, especially for young ducks. You can offer it as an emergency feeding diet when nothing else is available. But if given in excess, ducks will be prone to more carbohydrates and fewer nutrients. It results in weaker bones and a compromised immune system. Moldy bread can cause aspergillosis, a likely fatal respiratory infection.

Why Responsible Feeding Matters

Just like people and other animals, ducks need to be fed the right way. Make sure they’re getting proper food and follow a few simple tips when feeding them.

  • Always scatter food. This prevents crowding and fighting by spreading it out over a wide area.
  • To keep water clean, don’t throw those food items directly into the water that sinks. You can only throw the floating peas or the cor.
  • Never let your duck depend entirely on you for food. To ensure it avoids daily feeding. Instead, give them time to forage naturally.
  • Fresh food is vital for birds. Don’t feed moldy or spoiled food that you consider of no human use.
  • And most importantly, avoid overfeeding. Leftover food can attract pests like rodents and invasive birds like starlings.
  • In some regions, feeding ducks is illegal, especially if they are migratory species, due to conservation rules against baiting.
  • Always provide fresh drinking water with food.
  • Provide grit as we do for quails to help ducks grind food in their gizzards.
  • Feed small amounts that can be eaten within a few minutes.
owner of the farmstead in his farm holding hen

David Carter, founder of Farmstead Guide, has over 20 years of hands-on homesteading experience. From raising poultry to practicing sustainable farming, he shares practical tips and insights to help others live a more self-sufficient lifestyle.